Safety Procedures
Snatch Recovery Procedure:
Introduction.
A snatch strap is a heavy-duty strap used to tow or snatch a vehicle which is stuck in mud or a similar situation. The strap can stretch about 20% of its length when force is applied by the tow vehicle. The force stored in the strap can be quite high and so there is a large potential for serious damage or death if not done correctly.
The procedure we are about to explain is very detailed but each step is designed to reduce the risk of something going wrong. People die each year from not knowing or not following this procedure. Here is a short video clip of an experienced driver who, for some reason, did not follow the procedure. The strap became tangled and ended up with a knot which concentrated all the force in a small area. This caused the strap to fail. Fortunately it only destroyed his back door. There are reports of snatch straps being used incorrectly causing a piece of steel or the bow shackle to act like a cannonball which has gone through the back door, through both seats and killed the driver. We regularly use snatch straps but we never short-cut the safety procedure and we replace the straps when they are worn.
Video clip of snatch strap procedure NOT being followed 🙁 (watch from 8:25) Australia’s Best 4WD BOGS
Procedure
- Firstly determine why the vehicle is stuck and is there another way it could be freed. Try a gentle recovery first before applying more force.
- The snatch strap should have a rating of 2 to 3 times that of the GVM of the lightest of the two vehicles involved in the recovery. As of 30 November 2019, all snatch straps must have their rating displayed on the strap.
- Connect snatch strap to the bogged vehicle first. This reduces the risk of the strap being pulled while someone is still connecting it to the second vehicle.
- If you have the option, connect the strap to the passenger side. This reduces the risk to the driver if something goes wrong.
- There should only be one person in each vehicle so as to eliminate the possibility of a passenger being injured.
- If the recovery point is a hook type then ensure that the retaining system is working correctly and there is no possibility of the strap falling off.
- If a bow shackle needs to be used, then fit the bow of the shackle to the recovery point and connect the strap with the pin. This allows the bow shackle to load evenly on the recovery point if the strap is at an angle. Finger tighten the pin then undo 1/4 of a turn so that the pin does not become jammed in the shackle after the recovery.
- A bridle can be used to spread the load between both chassis rails.
- The strap should be laid out straight without any twists. If there is a twist, then the outer strands have to travel further than the centre strands, creating uneven stresses in the strap.
- Lay the strap in a straight line towards the tow vehicle, leaving about 2 metres to fold to the side in a “U” shape. This lets the driver of the bogged vehicle see when the slack is taken up during the recovery. It is now law that a damper must be placed over the strap. If the strap is laid in a straight line, it reduces the possibility of the damper being flicked sideways.
- Connect the snatch strap to a rated recovery point on the rear of the tow vehicle. If there is a recovery point connected to each chassis rail then it is recommended to use both by connecting them with a bridle. If there is only a centre connection point on the tow bar, then use it in conjunction with a recovery hitch or as recommended by the manufacturer. DO NOT connect to a tow ball – they are not rated for snatch recovery and can break off and become a missile. It is not recommended to connect to the front of the tow vehicle as most gearboxes are not designed for heavy loading in reverse gear.
- Once the strap is connected to both vehicles, it is considered “live”. No one is to step over the strap from this point in time.
- All spectators are to stand to the side and at a distance greater than the length of the strap.
- One person is nominated to control the recovery but anyone can stop the proceedings at any time if they see a problem.
- It is preferred to use hand signals to control the recovery as this eliminates the possibility of miscommunication over the radio (although having a handheld radio as well can be helpful).
- The recovery controller is to stand in view of both drivers but not directly in front.
- The hand signal sequence at St Alfred’s is:
- Controller raises his arm vertically (signal to drivers to respond)
- When each driver is ready, they place their arm horizontally out their window and wait for the controller.
- When both drivers have their arm out their window (signalling they are both ready), the controller also moves his arm to horizontal.
- The drivers place both hands on the steering wheel.
- The controller counts to 3 and then drops his arm to his side. This is the signal for the lead car to drive off in low second, at a moderate acceleration (as if leaving the traffic lights). The bogged vehicle will then assist by driving gently in low first. (during the training demo, the “bogged” vehicle will be applying gentle brake).
Spotting Procedure:
(Spotter: A person outside the vehicle who gives directions to the driver)
- Always use a spotter where vehicle damage could occur if exact wheel placement is not achieved.
- Spotters need to be experienced drivers. If a newbie jumps in to help, an experienced driver should watch what is happening.
- When a vehicle is under the control of a spotter, the driver should follow the spotter’s exact directions until control is handed back to the driver. If a driver becomes concerned about a situation, they are to stop the vehicle and get clarification. The driver is not to proceed under their own assumptions – other people are standing around to help and could be placed in danger.
- When a driver hands over control to a spotter, the driver is not handing over the responsibility for the vehicle’s safety. This remains the responsibility of the driver.
- The preferred means of communication is by hand signals from a safe vantage point and in clear view of the driver. If this cannot be achieved then radio communication is to be used. The driver is to keep both hands on the wheel at all times unless stopped.
- Use a spotter on each side of the vehicle where possible, even if you think there is not a problem on the other side.
- Never reverse a vehicle which is under the control of a spotter unless someone is watching the rear of the vehicle.
- Only one spotter is to give directions to the driver. Other spotters are to feed information to the lead spotter. If there are conflicting directions, the lead spotter is to stop the proceedings. Anyone can stop the proceedings at any time.
- Spotters are not to stand in a position where they could be trapped or injured if the vehicle unexpectedly moves sideways. Never stand downhill of a vehicle.
- If spotting a vehicle down a hill, stand well clear of the path of the vehicle in case the vehicle starts to slide. Consider if radio directions would be a safer option.
- No one is to walk behind (downhill of) a vehicle.
- If a driver indicates a line they wish to take, make sure everyone is clear on the exact line they want.
Convoy Procedure:
Any turns will be announced over the radio. Tail End Charlie (TEC) is the only vehicle which needs to respond. Even if TEC responds, radio transmissions are not always reliable so we each look out for the car behind us. When you come to a corner, put on your indicator, or wait just through the intersection if proceeding straight ahead. Do not move off until you see the car behind you also put on their indicator (or flash their headlights for straight ahead). Do not assume they have seen you. You do not have to keep the other cars in sight all the time, especially if there is dust.
Radio Procedure:
We use Channel 24 on the UHF radios for trip instructions. We will move UP through the channels if we need to change channel. We will do a radio check from time to time. You will be given a convoy list with your car number. Just call out your car number in sequence. When chatting on the radio, please leave a short gap between each brief transmission as the trip leader may need to give instructions or warnings of oncoming vehicles. Be aware that children in other vehicles may be listening at any time so choose your topics and language accordingly.
Performing a Vehicle Safety Check:
Get your co-driver to mark off the following check list. Once you are practiced, this inspection can be completed in a matter of minutes. Inspections should be carried out regularly to become familiar with your vehicle, then you can observe any minor changes before they become a problem. Drawing a straight line marker between a nut and its component gives a quick visual check that nothing is coming loose but a physical check should also be a part of your regularly inspection. Automatic transmission fluid level needs to be checked when the transmission is hot but other inspections are best performed when the vehicle is cold to reduce the risk of injury from hot components or fluids.
In the last 12 years I have seen all of the following aftermarket components and Original Equipment fall off vehicles: roof racks, radio aerials, driving lights, roof top tents, spare wheel carriers, spare fuel containers, gas bottles and bull bars (OE equipment) fuel tanks, doors, front mud guards, front inner guards, battery mount platforms and road wheels. This is due to the vibrations experienced over long rough roads. (by Dave Hooke)
External Inspection
Check tyre pressures. (Consider fitting a Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) – they have pros and cons)
Rear Bumper Area
1. Spare wheel bolted on.
2. Exhaust pipe visible and undamaged.
3. Rear Mud flaps attached properly.
4. Spare fuel Jerry can secure and not leaking.
5. Recovery pin in tow bar secured by split pin.
6. Visual inspection of ground for fuel or oil is leaking.
7. Number plate secure.
8. For tray back utilities – mudguards not cracking from vibration.
9. For tray back utilities – under tray storage bins secure.
Sides of Vehicle
1. Mirrors attached and undamaged.
2. Roof Rack bolts secure.
3. Side steps attached and undamaged.
4. Front Mud flaps attached properly.
5. Inspect length of car for fuel or oil leaks.
6. Wheel nuts are in place. Once a week check for correct torque. (Due to vibration and the direction of the thread, half the wheel nuts are trying to come loose and the other half are trying to over-tighten. Some large trucks use left and right-handed wheel nuts or locking rings to overcome this problem.
7. Visual inspection of ground under sides of vehicle to see if any fuel or oil is leaking onto the ground.
Front of Vehicle.
1. Bull Bar and winch is securely attached.
2. All lights are attached and pointing the right direction, try wobbling them.
3. Insulation on wiring is not rubbing on the bull bar or body work.
4. Radio Ariel is firmly attached.
5. Visual inspection of ground under front of vehicle to see if any fuel or oil is leaking out onto the ground.
Under the Bonnet.
1. Check engine oil level.
2. Check the brake fluid.
3. Check the clutch fluid.
4. Check the level of the power steering fluid.
5. Check and refill windscreen washer fluid.
6. Check level of fluid in radiator overflow tank
(this may indicate that you have a leak which is not visible).
7. Check level of fluid in radiator.
8. Check the air filter retaining nuts wriggling the filter to ensure it is attached to the body.
9. Check the air compressor retaining nuts if fitted.
10. Check and wriggle all visible electrical wires, solenoids and boxes.
11. Check the level of the liquid in the battery(s) cells.
12. Check battery terminals and inspect for corrosion,.
13. Check bolts holding battery to battery platform.
14. Rock the battery itself to ensure the platform is attached to the vehicle.
15. Cast a general eye over everything under the bonnet, looking for loose tubes that may have become disconnected, wobbling everything you can see and trying to remember what is NORMAL under your bonnet.
16. Clean the front windscreen, side windows and mirrors.
Inside the car prior to starting
1. Check the fuel level (in both tanks if fitted). Check you are not using more fuel than you expected.
2. Check the battery voltage. (Consider fitting a Bluetooth battery monitor)
a) 12.2 Volts to 12.9 Volts is the normal range with the engine switched off.
b) 11.9 Volts or less the battery will probably not function properly and may need to be replaced. First check that your battery terminal connections are clean.
If UHF or HF radios are wired to be on all the time, ensure they are turned off at the end of the day. They can draw enough power to flatten the starting battery overnight.
Sometimes the voltage may appear to be okay but the battery cannot sustain a sufficient voltage under a load. Cold weather can also affect a battery’s ability to start the engine. These voltages apply to the starter battery only and are different for auxiliary deep cycle batteries.
Loose Cargo
You can be involved in an accident at any time without it being any fault of your own. You can, however, help to minimize injury or even a death by securing all heavy, hard or dangerous items. How far you go is up to you (cameras, water bottles) but remember that even a loose pen can blind you.
There are a few options for securing items.
Cargo Barrier
This is often the most convenient option but it should be able to be removed from the back seat if the rear door lock jams – a common problem with dust on some station wagons.
Cargo Net.
Make sure these come down well and tight around the side of your load so that nothing slides out if the car rolls over. Putting a blanket over the load helps secure small items.
Tie Items Down with Ropes or Straps.
Again, consider how items could move if the vehicle rolls over.
Place Small Items in a Sports/Duffel Bag which is then tied down.
We do not recommend bringing an axe unless it is contained within a box. An axe can slide past the side of a cargo barrier.
We offer a vehicle inspection before every trip but particularly on trips rated Difficult and Very Difficult. The safety of your vehicle and passengers is always your responsibility.
Bush Fires
Take the following actions if you encounter smoke or flames and are not able to turn around and drive to safety.
- Position the car to minimize exposure to radiant heat:
- Park away from dense bush – try to find a clearing.
- If possible, park behind a barrier such as a wall or rocky outcrop.
- The car should ideally face towards the oncoming fire front.
- Park off the roadway and turn hazard lights on. Car crashes are common in bushfires due to poor visibility
- To increase your chances of survival
- Stay in the car, and tightly close windows and doors.
- Cover up with woollen blankets and get down below window level – this is your highest priority.
- Drink water to prevent dehydration.
- As soon as you become aware that the fire front is close by:
- Shut all vents and turn the air conditioning off
- Turn the engine off
Be prepared: if you drive in bushfire-prone areas, keep woolen blankets in your car. This is an essential precaution during the warmer months.
Source: http://www.cfa.vic.gov.au/plan-prepare/staying-safe-in-the-car/
Risk of Vehicle Fires
There has been an increasing number of vehicle fires caused by dry grass collecting around hot exhaust pipes. This can be a problem on any vehicle but particularly on new diesels since the introduction of Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF) which can run extremely hot. Travelling through long grass, especially in hot weather, is something to be avoided but if you do find yourself in this situation, it is recommended to clear any build-up of grass from under your vehicle every half hour or so. A long steel bar with a hook is a helpful tool for this job but it should be securely stowed. Turning onto a sealed road can be a more dangerous time as exhaust temperatures rise and the DPF is more likely to do a high temperature burn off. (If you own a late-model diesel then I suggest you learn how to maintain your DPF – start with your Owner’s Manual.)
When grass ignites under your 4WD, it may first appear to be a fire at the back of your engine as the flames travel up the transmission tunnel and into the engine bay. Check under your vehicle to see where the fire is actually located. A dry powder fire extinguisher may have limited effectiveness aimed upwards under your vehicle as you need a layer of powder to sit on the fuel to extinguish it. Dry powder fire extinguishers also don’t take heat out of the fire and so they can reignite. A water spray system (such as a garden spray wand) may be more suitable but only if you can access it quickly. A bit of ingenuity may be required here to have an effective system. If a fire extinguisher is what you have at hand, then use it.
If the fire spreads to surrounding grassland, this could be an even bigger threat than your vehicle fire. Grass fires can spread quickly depending on the length of grass and wind speed and while initially the fire will probably burn away from you, there is no guarantee that you or someone else will not get caught in it. You will have to act quickly to stop it. Have an action plan: 1) Attack the source of the fire in your vehicle. 2) Prevent the fire from spreading. 3) Retrieve your emergency supplies (see Emergency Grab Bag). Delegate these jobs to your group or better still, know in advance what each person will do.
Fires require fuel, oxygen and heat in order to burn. Years ago, a damp hessian sack on the end of a large stick was often used to put out grass fires by whacking the flames at their base, backwards towards the burnt area (so as not to spread embers forward) and so momentarily removing the oxygen. The same thing could be done with a floor mat (dry or damp) and a quick attach system to a shovel handle (or even by hand using your winching gloves and body protection). If the grass fire is not too intense and it is safe to do so, attack the fire from its front otherwise work along the edge to reduce the heat as you move towards the front of the fire. You probably won’t be able to move quickly enough shovelling sand or soil to stop the fire unless you catch it in the very early stages. Every situation will be different and can change without notice so be prepared to stop and re-evaluate your progress and priorities.
Prevention is better than cure but a backup plan is a wise precaution, especially if you intend doing a lot of driving in spinifex areas. The effort will be worth it if you ever have to use it.
- Can you adapt a pressurized shower system to be effective with a long hose and have it running in seconds? Pipes and connection points should be away from the engine bay.
- Consider where else there might be pressurized water. Do you have an on-board air compressor – can that be used to pressurize a water tank quickly? Any bottles of fizzy drink may have already exploded but if not, give them a shake and loosen the top.
- Is it worth carrying a firefighters knapsack? This might be your new shower grey water tank.
- Don’t remove the heat shield from around the PDF in order to get better access for cleaning – PDFs can burn at up to 600° C and the shield is there to protect your car. Get professional advice if you decide to modify it.
Links:
Video of burning vehicle. (See from 10:55) This will give you an idea of what to expect.
How a dry powder fire extinguisher works.
Types of fire extinguishers and their uses.
See article at Pat Callinan’s 4X4 Adventures
Lessons Learnt Log
- Always carry your full recovery gear, saw and tools even if the trip is planned to be easy.
- Don’t rely on everyone following the “Marking the Corner” convoy procedure.
Resolution: Use the UHF radio to announce directions as well as marking the corner.
Resolution: Periodically check all vehicles are still in convoy (by radio reporting they can see previous/following vehicle, or pausing to re-group.) - Always use a “spotter” on both sides of a vehicle (and behind if reversing), even if you think it is not necessary.
- Heavy, loose items are to be secured behind a cargo barrier or restrained in some manner.
- When fitting a cargo barrier, consider how you will access food and water if the rear door lock fails.